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Field notes

Stories

The guides are for planning. This is for everything that happens once you're actually here, told straight, in first person, without the polish.

Hanging beef and a pig's head over a butcher's scale inside the meat hall at Mercado Guanuca, Matagalpa
Matagalpa

The Belly of Matagalpa

A brutal hangover, a market building that smells like a slaughterhouse, and the bowl of tripe soup that fixed everything.

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